Surami resort, a place to head to for a breath of fresh air for many Georgians come summer, can be found on the Likhi mountain range. It is also on the main road as you head to western Georgia to Kutaisi or the Black Sea from Tbilisi. As well as a wooded picnic area with small huts housing ovens wafting out the sweet scent of cinnamon bread (‘nazuki’), you’ll find the ruins of the Surami Fortress overlooking the town. It dates from before the 12th century. During his fight against Iran, Giorgi Saakadze defended the fortress and since it was held at times by the Osmans and then by the Russians. In the surrounding area, there are some nine churches and a synagogue.