This hidden gem in the emerald-green valley can be discovered just a short taxi ride out of the Borjomi city. Officially known as the Chitakhevi Monastery of St. George, it was built on the right bank of the River Kura somewhere between the 9th-10th centuries. The rough stones that were used all bear faint shades of green that vary in intensity. Because of this, it is referred to as ‘the Green Monastery’.
Take the main road south out of Borjomi for 13km until you come to a small road on the right. Follow the single-lane track into the forest. It is possible to drive the final kilometer to the monastery, but many people will advise you to walk it. The straight, even route to the monastery can be made in 10-15 minutes, but most tend not to rush. You will be lulled by the gentle flow of the river Kura, transfixed by the fresh, dewy air and seduced by the luscious landscape.
Nothing breaks the sublime silence once you arrive at the courtyard, which, thanks to the monks, is kept in pristine condition. Step inside and immediately you will smell the rich, echoing scent of ceremonial incense. It is a truly spiritual place that will make you feel like you are closer to God.
It has not always been this peaceful, though. The Green Monastery was raided in the 16th century during the invasions of Shah Thamaz. Dozens of monks were violently tortured and killed and it is said that the bloody remains were tossed into the adjacent river. Many believe that this is where the rocks in the river bed got their morbid, crimson appearance. They are known as the ‘bloody stones’ and can be seen along the length of the river directly adjacent to the monastery. The rocks are said to have a healing power and maintain the red hue regardless of the season.
Our tips:
Dress modestly. Women must cover their hair, men must wear long trousers
Cameras are allowed, flash must be off
Entrance is free, but a donation is optional
By Tom Day