I went in a family Volvo but for the sake of sanity and car longevity, I don’t suggest trying this in anything but a 4x4. We approached from Sagaredjo- heading out into what they call a “desert” but actually a vast expanse of rolling-to-the-horizon grassy hillside- the kind that could easily feature in a horror movie for isolation. But breath-taking nonetheless. Just take plenty of water and snacks with you and make sure the tires are pumped and the fuel tank full! The rocks across the valley from the monastery complex were of a wonderful mixed coloring- reminding me of the Painted Desert in the Four Corners (US).
You enter the functioning part of the complex (named Lavra) through a stone archway- drinking water available- and then head down to the courtyard via “hidden” steps to see the renovated church- ladies, make use of the headscarves provided, men, don’t go in if you’re not wearing trousers! There are no signs explaining the history of the caves (though a simple guidebook can be bought in the giftshop), but plenty –disappointing to that natural tourist curiosity- saying “No entrance.” Lavra, the original monastery, was founded by St. David Garejeli, one of the thirteen Assyrian monks who returned from the Middle East to spread Christianity in Georgiain the 6th century. The monks translated and copied manuscripts here and there was a renowned school of fresco painting. The monasteries were destroyed by Mongols in 1265, revived in the 14th century and then destroyed in 1615 by Shah Abbas’ soldiers. During Soviet times, the military used the area for exercises and vandalized the monasteries.
Another route up a narrow trail by the giftshop leads you around the complex and up to Udabno- a frescoed cave and fabulous views the other side of the mountain. At times the trail crosses the border into Azerbaijan. Three warnings here- don’t take kids, smile at the border guards in your best “I’m an innocent tourist” manner, and beware of poisonous snakes!
Infrastructure is being added to around the Lavra complex but for the moment the only “café” comes in the form of over-priced drinks from a Coffee Car.
We drove back via a dirt-and-gravel track through fields and past old soviet hulks of abandoned factories into Rustavi.
WHERE: 2 hours outside Tbilisi/Rustavi. There is also an inexpensive (25 GEL tour) shuttle bus Gareji Line going daily from and back to Tbilisi from 14th of April to 15th of October.
OPEN: 10 AM til sundown
TICKET: FREE
