“Entrance at the back”, promulgates a small sign at the pompous doorway of a gallery, situated at the grand avenue leading to Tbilisi’s old town. The entrance and its corresponding building are nestled in between other belle art constructions flanking both its sides. Still, none of the neighboring structures at privileged enough to have received a spot surrounded by a little park, where Georgians and tourist mingle and mix. This park encapsulating the gallery is a perfect exemplar for the phrase “the cherry on top of the chocolate cake”, adding the last piece of a mosaic to this architectural masterpiece.
The glittering neo-baroque façade bars the visitors this time from entering at the main entrance, as art-loving-and-money-spending individuals decided to push for its renovation. The walk around the structure seems almost as a blessing, giving the opportunity to glimpse at the other sides of the building, which the majority of the art seekers would have missed if the main entrance had been open.
For anyone coming to Tbilisi with some interest in modern art, this museum is a must-go destination, although traditional Georgian mind-sets are nowhere to be found. So, Lonely Planet adventurous should know about the missing excitement of usually Western backpacking. The place exhibits a rather tranquil, sophisticated aura meant to quietly inspire one’s mind. The art pieces expound on the unknown Georgian art world, catapulting the visitors from the phlegmatic street life into white gallery rooms exciting their eyes.
Named after Dimitri Shevardnadze, the art gallery experienced a bumpy road of different political ideologies taking over the showrooms to influence the public. To some extent it shares its experience with its founder, who is hailed as paving the road for the Georgian modern art movement. Educated abroad, he founded the first major artist association in Tbilisi in 1916 and moved quickly ahead to found the current gallery in 1920. His advocacy for Georgian art and architecture led to his execution in 1936 by Stalin’s henchmen, when leading a protest to defend the demolition of the medieval Metekhi church in Tbilisi. The repeal of the demolition after his death gives solace to Georgians till today, praising his commitment for defending art.
Presently, the big pride of the gallery is a permanent exhibition showcasing four major influential artists and their impeccable depictions of life, traditions and society in Georgia. Niko Pirosmanashvili, an artist who rose to fame posthumously, was even part of Shevardnadze’s artists association, but considered himself an outcast by their droll caricatures. His paintings embody the rural lifestyle of pre-communist Georgia often focusing on farmer feasts, working animals, wine traditions and food markets. Equally impressive are David Kakabadze’s art works stemming from the early 20th century theming leftist political messages and incorporating typical modernist movements, such as cubism or experiments with film and photography. Lado Gudiashvili complements this historical travel back in Georgian history and is joined by Iakob Nikoladze, an artist using his skill of sculpturing to create a generation of inspired sculptors within Georgian society over the course of the 20th century.
Visitors seeking the more macabre and darker expression of an artist’s mind may find comfort in the temporary exhibition by Gia Bugadze. His collection named “Olim-Ever” plays with the abstract ideas of the bible using the cross and other objects to seemly crush the majestic lavishness of holy symbols into a hidden and concealed idea. The fine nets covering his pieces and the occasional three-dimensionality of his works add to the dim colour usage to create an art exhibition, which keeps lingering in the brain when drinking a coffee at the gallery’s café after the visit.
Lovers of the Italian Renaissance will be stunned by an exhibition about Michelangelo. Tbilisi may have been at the bottom of the list for Michelangelo galleries, but as so often the Georgian capital surprises its visitors. The Italian embassy may be politically unimportant in Georgian affairs, yet takes up its responsibility of spreading its importance on Western art development. Casa Buonarroti, a Florence-based gallery, and the embassy cooperated with the Georgian art lovers to showcase 6 preparatory drawings for his well-renowned painting on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.
Last but not least, Andrey Ostashov allows visitors to focus on the deep understanding of Belarus sculpting. Ostashov’s works are a conglomeration of West and East elaborating on combining elements rather than the dividing ones. Still exhibiting the differences between Asia and Europe, his pieces take Eastern and Western relations to a new dimension. Especially Mythologist should brace themselves for Ostashov’s sculptures.
Temporary Exhibitions:
· "Olim - Ever" by Gia Bugadze till 11th April 2018
· Michelangelo and the Sistine Chapel – Preparatory Drawings till 3rd April 2018
· “Elements – Sculpture and Graphics” by Andrey Ostashov till 23th March 2018
WHERE: 11, Rustaveli Ave., Tbilisi, Georgia
By Benjamin Music