Driving to Batumi? Ten Things Not to Miss on the Way…
My family makes the trip from Tbilisi to Batumi several times a year. The 6-hour trip can seem long, so here are some recommendations to break up an otherwise monotonous drive.
APPLES FROM THE AGRO MARKET
Just past the giant wind turbines the other side of Gori, pull in at the agricultural market to buy some locally grown fruit and veg direct from the buckets of local farmers. Not only will you be “buying Georgian” and helping the villagers, you’ll also be guaranteed a delicious and natural snack for your journey.
CATHEDRAL OF ST GEORGE, SURAMI
This is the only church in Georgia with the bell tower built into the main structure of the church building. It dates back to the 18th-19th and was restored in 1968.
NAZUKI IN THE WOODS
Drive through Surami and around the bend until you see random women standing outside small wooden huts at the roadside waving loaves of flat golden bread at you. Pick one, pull over and ask for “tskheli nazuki”. Each cinnamon-raisin-glazed loaf costs 2 GEL and they are best eaten hot, and even better when eaten in the fairytale pine woods behind the huts.
TERRACOTTA & CHOPPING BOARDS
Once through the extremely long and horribly lit Rikota tunnel (keep your windows up- there’s no ventilation here!), you’ll find yourself winding through the lush river gorge that welcomes you to western Georgia. This can be an uncomfortable stretch of road, too narrow for the traffic load, which invariably leads to frustrated drivers taking risks- so be careful. Take your time, stop for lunch (plenty of roadside cafes to choose from) and buy a souvenir. Stalls are dotted along the stretch selling terracotta pots and bowls, hand-made drums, locally-carved chopping boards and honey. In the summer you can also enjoy fresh hot corn cobs coated with salt.
BELLS & FRESCOES
The drop down to the village of Ubisa is on the left-hand corner. There, you’ll find a small village and medieval monastic complex in Georgia comprising the 9th century St. George’s Monastery, founded by St. Gregory of Khandzta, a four-floor tower (AD 1141), fragments of a 12th-century defensive wall and several other buildings and structures. This stop is made even more worthy by the 14th century mural made by Damiane, who is said to have been influenced by art from the Byzantine Palaiologan period (1261-1453).
COFFEE IN ZESTAPHONI
The road leading into this not-much-worth-seeing post-industrial town has seen a mushrooming of friendly roadside coffee bars. Note- Starbucks has yet to agree an official presence in Georgia, so don’t believe the signs claiming otherwise.
KUTAISI
Is a town worth staying in a little longer. The center is renovated, cobbled and Mediterranean style. The central park offers calm fountains and statues of Georgia’s most notable figures, while the Opera House well deserves the attention of your camera lens. Head to the controversial Bagrati Cathedral, renovated to such an extent that UNESCO removed it from its list of Cultural Heritage in 2014.
MAGNETIC TOES
If you still have time, pop across the railway track into the seaside “village” of Ureki / Magnetiti. The black volcanic sand is said to be curative and the gently sloping beach makes a great place for little ones to paddle reasonably safely.
MINI GEORGIA
At the opposite side of the carpark to the Tsisinatura (FireFly) theme park (opens every night at 6pm) you can find the best churches, architecture and monuments of Georgia laid out in miniature. Check out Ubisa and the Surami Cathedral you just saw!
GREEN FINGERS
The Green Cape is a vibrant sub-tropical tea-and-bamboo-growing area. The earth is a vibrant red, setting off the green of the tea plants- making a beautiful photo opportunity. Grab a bamboo souvenir as you pass.
Have a good road trip!
By Katie Ruth Davies