Lagodekhi is a town spread out at the base of the Greater Caucasus Mountains in Kazbegi, bordering Azerbaijan. It is built around the highway that connects all towns and villages this side of the Alazani Valley and its center boasts mini markets, an open fruit-and-veg market, the town hall and lots of pharmacies. There is also a restaurant serving excellent (and generous portions of) Georgian food- aptly named 'Restaurant'.

There's not much for entertainment here as yet, though they did host the Blues Festival this summer and are currently renovating the town square (though not the degraded Soviet hotel next to it, sadly). Perhaps the only reason you'd want to spend any time here at all is the vast nature reserve or for some time in the fresh air away from urban life. For somewhere to stay, we recommend Guest House Lago as it has a pool and large landscaped garden.

There is, of course, some history to be told. Lagodekhi was founded in the 8th century, under the name of Lakuasti, when Eristavi Archil I ordered a fortress be built (now mere ruins thanks to the work of Shah Abbas, a 17th century Persian invader who did a lot of damage all-round!)

In 1830, Lagodekhi became a military settlement and remained the headquarters of the region until 1917. The support post was transformed into a civilian settlement in 1857 and built up from there into what you see today.

From 1864 to 1897, the Orthodox Church in the name of the Protection of the Blessed Virgin Mary was built and you can here the bells chime sweetly on the hour and at Mass.

Main photo: Wikimedia