Summers in Georgia are generally characterized by lounging on the multicolored pebble beaches of Batumi or Kobuleti, and sneaking off on long weekends into the mountains to escape the heat. The region of Ajara allows travelers to combine the best of the two! The far western region, which borders the Black Sea, is diverse, and has plenty of secrets to reveal to the curious and persistent traveler.
The most popular places to visit in Ajara are, undoubtedly, the beach towns – particularly in the summer. There are also popular villages in the mountainous part of Ajara, lush and tropical, and full of cultural and historic character. There are many sites, however, that are less well known. Here are some of the best kept secrets in Ajara.
THE GRAVE OF ST. MATTIAS
In the Christian tradition, Saint Matthias was one of the 12 apostles of Jesus, appointed to replace the betrayer, Judas. While less well known than the other apostles, Matthias led an interesting life, spreading the gospel in Cappadocia and on the coast of the Caspian Sea. One version of his story says that, while preaching near ancient Colchis (today western Georgia), he was stoned to death, and was buried in the ruins of the Roman fortress of Gonio-Apsaros. Today, visitors to the fortress, just a few kilometers south of Batumi, can see a rough stone grave marker topped with a white wooden cross. This is believed by the Georgian Orthodox community to be the grave of Saint Matthias.
KHIKHANI FORTRESS
Khikhani Fortress is located at 2,200 meters above sea level near the mountain village of Khulo. The fortress, mostly a ruin today, features rectangular towers, walls, a bakery, wine storage area, a water well and a church. It is believed to have been built in the 13th century, and used as a strategic defense outpost until the 19th century. Reaching the fortress requires a 45-minute, medium-difficulty walk up steep, winding trails. The best way to reach the spot is to hire a driver from one of the nearby towns. Snug up against the Turkish border, don’t forget your passport – border guards often register visitors for safety purposes.
KHULO CABLE CAR
Khulo is one of the most beautiful settlements in the area, and a great place to stay for a couple nights as a base to explore mountainous Adjara. The main attraction in Khulo is the Soviet-era cable car – a narrow, rusty yellow box, that connects the center of Khulo with the little village of Tago across a wide valley. The views from the cable car are stunning and, if you can stomach it, the operator will open the door during the ride so you can take clear photos. At 1,719 meters, it is the second longest ropeway in Europe, and has no intermediate supporting structures! Across the valley in Tago, there isn’t anything to do apart from enjoy a cup of coffee and some homemade sweets in the courtyard of the first house off the cable car, which the owners have turned into a small café. You can also take a stroll through the village and see what life in Georgia’s isolated high mountains looks like.
According to the locals, the village would be abandoned if it were not for the ropeway. The only road to the village was damaged, allowing only two cars to move along it at a time. The situation is even more difficult in the winter. In bad weather, the road becomes unpassable. The cable car runs from approximately 9 am – 7 pm, depending on the weather, daylight, and the mood of the operator. A return ticket is 2.50 lari.
GREEN LAKE
Near the resorts, of Beshumi and Goderdzi, just 10 minutes apart at about 2,025 meters above sea level, is Green Lake. The resorts are great places to stay as a base for exploring the mountainous Ajara area if you like peace, quiet, and wild nature. Green Lake is one of the most attractive sites here – a small lake whose still, colorless water reflects the green mountains it’s nestled among. There are not many options for accommodation here, but the area is developing quickly with significant investment from the government and the private sector. Visitors can stay in a simple cottage at the Goderdzi resort, or at one of the many guesthouses in the area.
It is about a three-hour drive from Batumi to Goderdzi in the summertime.
BATUMI FISH MARKET
The Batumi Fish Market is hot, crowded, smelly, damp, and an absolute must-visit. A stark contrast to the sleek glimmer of urban Batumi, the fish market is raw (literally) and organic. The market offers both local catches and imports from across the Black Sea, Turkey and Ukraine – so if you want the freshest, local products, make sure to ask. There are several good waterfront restaurants on the other side of the market. You can pick out the sea creatures you would like, and the sellers will walk them over to their associated restaurant, where they will be cooked to order. Cold beer, beautiful sea views, fresh caught seafood – a surprising rarity in Batumi, so don’t miss it!
BATUMI STREET ART
While most cities struggle with some amount of graffiti, Batumi is lucky to boast some of Georgia’s prettiest street art. Most sophisticated than graffiti, and often commissioned from local artists, there are several large-scale murals on the city walls. Some force viewers to question their lifestyle and culture, and some are just pretty. Look out for great street art on the port wall, on the right hand side when entering the city by car, near the Hilton Hotel, and hidden around non-descript corners in the old city center!
BATUMI SCULPTURES
Another can’t miss art experience in Batumi are the many sculptures. There are creative, modern works all along the boardwalk, in addition to tucked into the city’s many parks and gardens. Georgian sculptor Tamara Kvesitadze created the stunning Ali and Nino statues, metal rings in the figure of a man and a woman that, throughout the course of each day, move towards and then pass through each other. Nino Chubika’s white angles can be found in the courtyard of the Magnolia apartment building. A monument to first love by Irakli Tsuladze also sits on the boardwalk. A whimsical white plaster sculpture of a pilot with an airplane and a little girl stands guard at the entrance to the 6th of May Park. These and many others await curious travelers with an eye for art!
BATUMI BOTANICAL GARDEN
While the Batumi Botanical Garden is not necessarily a secret, and in fact is quite popular, it deserves even more attention than it gets. The garden is a true natural wonder, with kilometers of walking trails winding through densely packed subtropical flora, including many unique trees, bushes, and flowers. The park has an exceptional collection that features succulents, palms, roses, camellias, citrus, bamboos, magnolia, cypress, pine, and maple trees. There are also plenty of nut and fruit trees. Large, sweet-smelling magnolias, up to 125 years old, are heady and romantic. Towering centenarian sequoias draw gasps and crane necks. The small white flowers contrast against the dark green leaves of Osmanthus plants – also called, dramatically, devilwood. The garden has its own secrets within, including hidden Japanese gardens, romantic, cozy landscapes and panoramic views. There are also unexpected combinations – Canary Island date palms growing as neighbors to Japanese cherry blossom trees!
By Samantha Guthrie
Photo: Batumi Botanical Garden