Last summer, deep in the mountains of Tusheti, I had a bite of heaven. Laboring to the top of a hill 400 meters above the village of Danklo, we were greeted by a scene quite commonplace in this enchanted part of Georgia. Stone towers and houses of a vintage centuries old, worn down in a battle of the ages against the elements, void of any visible inhabitants covered the peak. We slalomed our way through the buildings, praying that the pagan saints of the land did not enlist an overzealous Caucasus Shepherd dog for protection. Turning the corner, we came upon a small restaurant. The meal I would have here was one that changed my life, redefining my understanding of flavor and cementing my love for Georgia. Yet, Tusheti is more than just its magical lamb khinkali — relatively untouched and snowed in for most of the year, this corner of Georgia is not for the faint-hearted. Accessible only after the successful navigation of a jaw-droopingly beautiful — and, supposedly, one of the top ten most dangerous in the world — road that slaloms through the mountains tantalizingly close to drops hundreds of meters deep (or via helicopter if you have that kind of cash), Tusheti offers unparalleled adventure and wonder through it’s hikes, Holy Shrines, and many festivals. Any trip will require two-three days at the very least, so naturally you’ll be wondering where to stay — here are my top five suggestions:

CAMP 

Tusheti is breathtakingly beautiful. With great views. The best views.  Everybody says so. Nothing beats falling asleep under the night sky so just do it. I did it this summer and my only regret is that I didn’t stay longer. Sure, it will be cold, but get a sleeping bag and build a fire. No excuses. Though, I suppose if you’re gonna read a travel magazine for tips then you’re hardly the archetypal camper. Yes, I went there and no, the irony isn’t lost on me either. What are you going to do about it? Go camp!

GUESTHOUSES

Lasharai Guesthouse, Upper Omalo

This place is pretty amazing. While I didn’t sleep here because cool kids camp in beautiful natural parks, cool kids also need to eat and get drunk too. And so, Lasharai Guesthouse is where we went. Their homemade cheeses are fantastic, as is the chacha and beer and wine. It’s a family hotel that offers spacious rooms and suites ensuring that your stay is incredibly comfortable. Perfect if you’re the travel-magazine-reading-camping-is-beneath-me type. Moreover, they have indoor plumbing too, which is pretty rare in Tusheti. And ok, fair enough, I’ll admit it: on more than one occasion I found myself sprinting across Omalo to use their toilet because, well, overflowing outdoor drop-dunnies are the only downsides to camping. Promise you won’t tell the owners?

TEL (+995) 555 645 254 (Ask for "Nato") or (+995) 591 012 621 (Ask for "Nato")

E-mail: guesthouselasharai@yahoo.com

photos: http://www.guesthouselasharai.com/home.html

Guesthouse Shina

A pretty sweet and fancy getaway, this stone-and-wood house has, wait for it, en suite private rooms, a tasty restaurant, front garden and electric lighting. Massive for Tusheti. Absolutely worth your time and money. 

Hotel Dartlo

A comfortable and quaint hotel at the top of the remote village of Dartlo. It offers splendid views and six cosy rooms, electric lighting, and 4WD tours. What’s more, perched 400m above the village of Dartlo, is a series of ruins and Holy Shrines, amongst which lies a small restaurant. Their lamb khinkali is the best I have had in Georgia. Definitely, worth the hike.

Gueshouse Mirgvela

Located at the junction of the Pirikiti and Gomstari Alazani valley roads about five kilometers northwest of Omalo, this guesthouse is the perfect place to start or end your day of hiking or driving. Stocked with hearty meals, cosy pine-panelled rooms, a massive lawn and great views and a generator to provide electricity, it’s definitely somewhere you want to be to soak up Tusheti’s beauty.

(+995) 592 00 20 02