Summers in Georgia are generally characterized by lounging on the multicolored pebble beaches of Batumi or Kobuleti, and sneaking off on long weekend into the mountains to escape the heat. Mountainous Ajara allows travelers to combine the best of the two!
Drive east from Georgia’s Black Sea coast for less than an hour, and you’ll find yourself enveloped in a tropical paradise. Lush green mountains strung with vines and bright blossoms hide sparkling lakes and rivers. Look back, and you’ll catch stunning views of the Black Sea. The dramatic, adventure filled mountains of Ajara are absolutely worth a visit. Here are four of the best places to explore in mountainous Ajara this summer!
MTIRALA NATIONAL PARK
There are several national parks in mountainous Ajara, and Mtirala is one of the most interesting. The name, in Georgian, means ‘crying,’ called so because of the near constant precipitation the area receives – the most of any place in the country! It is like stepping into another world, full of fog and mist and tropical flora. Less than an hour from the glitz and urban life of Batumi, this wild, natural place is the perfect way to experience a taste of mountainous Ajara without going too far from the coast.
MACHAKHELA NATIONAL PARK
Another excellent national park in the area is Machakhela. Also less than an hour from Batumi, but in the other direction, the park is centered around the town of Khelvachauri. The southern part of the Machakhela valley marks the border between Georgia and Turkey. Machakhela National Park boasts ancient arched stone bridges, fortresses and castles in various states of ruin, and even historic limestone water fountains, wine presses and cellars! There are two well-maintained roads that go through the park, and several trails that take hikers through groves of alder, beech, and chestnut. A lookout point from the top of Mtavarangelozi (Archangel in Georgian) mountain offers breathtaking views of Batumi, the Machakhela River valley, and the delta where several grey-green rivers flows into the ironic bright blue of the Black Sea.
Don’t forget to stop by the Transfiguration Church in the village of Akhalsheni, the Machakhela Ethnographic Museum, which is in an old Mosque, and the Laz Ethnographic Museum, celebrating the history and culture of the Laz people, who inhabit the Black Sea coast of Georgia and Turkey.
KHULO
One of the loveliest destinations in mountainous Adjara is Khulo – a small town that doesn’t have much to do except for relax and enjoy the views. Perched on a hillside overlooking the Adjaristskali River, the best way to appreciate the lush green hills and sparkling water views is by riding the local cable car. Locals use the cable car as practical transportation between Khulo and the village of Tago across the gorge. There is also a local history and folk culture museum, the 13th century Skhalta Monastery is just a half hour drive south, and, in the village of Uchkho, about 20 minutes away, there is one of Ajara’s famous arched stone bridges from the 11th-12th centuries.
The road between Batumi and Khulo, approximately 2.5 hours, is littered with several historic sites, including the 11-12th century limestone arch Dandalo or King Tamar Bridge, and the Makhuntseti waterfall, a short, easy hike from the road.
Every year on July 3, the village of Bako in the Khulo municipality hosts the Selimoba festival to celebrate the life of local hero and political leader during the Ottoman occupation in the 18th and early 19th century, Selim Khimshiashvili. On the first weekend of August, the Shuamtoba (inter-mountain in Georgia) festival is held in Khulo and the neighboring municipality of Shuakhevi, which includes folk dancing and singing, and horse races.
BESHUMI & GODERDZI RESORTS
These two resorts, just 10 minutes apart at about 2,025 meters above sea level, are great places to stay as a base for exploring the wider mountainous Ajara area if you like peace, quiet, and wild nature. While Goderdzi is best known for being a ski resort, there are plenty of summer activities on offer, including hiking, horseback riding, paragliding, riding ATVs, and biking. One of the most attractive sites here is Green Lake, a small lake whose still, colorless water reflects the green mountains it’s nestled among. There are not many options for accommodation here, but the area is developing quickly with significant investment from the government and the private sector. Visitors can stay in a simple cottage at the Goderdzi resort, or at one of the many guesthouses in the area.
It is about a three-hour drive from Batumi to Goderdzi in the summertime.
By Samantha Guthrie
Photo: Indy Guide